Prepare the morels the day before, or at least a couple of hours before cooking. Soak the morels in fresh water for 15 minutes, then discard the water and rinse them delicately. Place them in a bowl of milk at room temperature, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to use, discard the milk (or save it for another sauce) and let the morels dry.

Cut the chicken into pieces - wings, breasts halved, or whole, as you prefer. In a cast-iron Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil.

Sear the chicken pieces until nicely browned on all sides, then remove and set aside. Add the butter to the pot, then the shallots, and cook over medium heat until translucent.

Still over medium heat, add the wine, crème fraîche, morels, and chicken. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook gently for 35–45 minutes, checking regularly to make sure it isn’t sticking and the heat isn’t too high.

To serve, plate the chicken and sauce, then sprinkle with fresh tarragon leaves. This is best served with a purée.